The fashion world is constantly evolving, with each season bringing new trends and styles to the forefront. This autumn/winter, the unifying message is real, as opposed to fantastical, fashion. Designers are focusing on creating garments that are grounded in reality, with an emphasis on materials, tactility, and daywear.
Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy encapsulated this ethos by stating that he was “interested in making a monument out of the everyday,” which sets the tone for the season. The focus is less on extravagant silhouettes and more on heritage tweeds, herringbones, plaids, and knits that evoke an English country weekend vibe. The use of ski sweaters adds a touch of nostalgia for snow, which is becoming increasingly rare due to climate change.
Outerwear takes center stage this season, with shearling, faux furs, feathers, and yarn providing both warmth and style. These voluminous pieces offer a sense of protection and comfort, allowing the wearer to make a statement without saying a word. High collars and novel takes on camouflage further enhance the theme of safety and connection to nature.
While the world may be facing grim realities such as wars and political unrest, the fashion industry is offering a form of escapism through protective garments that embrace the wearer. Designers are exploring ways to find beauty and order in chaos, with some collections featuring garments that stretch, twist, and spiral around the body. This physicality adds an element of excitement and unpredictability to the season’s offerings.
Corporate values and symbols of power are also being reimagined in the form of neck ties and other traditional elements of formalwear. Designers are using these symbols as a commentary on late-stage capitalism and the shifting dynamics of power in society. The season’s Le Smoking trend pays homage to iconic figures like Marlene Dietrich and Yves Saint Laurent, adding a touch of sophistication and authority to evening dressing.
From extravagant collars to voluminous outerwear, autumn/winter 2024 is a season of contrasts and contradictions. Designers are embracing imperfection, off-ness, and flatness in their creations, challenging traditional notions of beauty and perfection. By incorporating elements of nature, protection, and physicality into their designs, they are creating a sense of connection and comfort for the wearer. This season is not just about fashion; it’s about making a statement and embracing the complexities of the world we live in.
